Tuesday, September 23, 2014

"With lack of a clear, true meaning of the sport, surfing served as a source for adventure over the coarse of the trip" This quote, found in the "Humboldt" section, is reasonably self explanatory and does not really have any hidden meanings. Although it is one without much literary intelligence, it still retains a stiff meaning that any surfer can relate to. Yes, of coarse, people surf for the fun; but to get the most fun out of the sport in its entirety, one must use his/her surfboard as a symbol for exploration. This could mean many things; finding new breaks along secluded parts of the coast line, or base an entire trip around it, similar to the way that the two men in California Surf Project did. The author here is trying to capture what being a die-hard surfer in California is truly like. With rural coastline stretching for miles at a time, surfing can be used much more as a tool for adventure than it can in say, New England where no matter where you are on the coastline there is some sort of structure obstructing the coasts naturality. Regardless of being in New England, I can personally and truly say that I do use my surfboard as a source of adventure. Here in northern New England, the only undeveloped spots along the coastline that haven't really been discovered by surfers are hidden in state reservations. By passing the legal boundaries, however, I have found at leased 3 spots along the coast of the Plum Island Reservation that break and barrel far better than the spot where everybody goes easily. I always seemed to be fearless to cross these boundaries. I feel that as long as you're respectful to the protected environment which you are entering, leave no trace and don't "accidentally step on a piping plover" you have the right to cross those boundaries. And, that is where you will find the strongest connection to nature.

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